Mahiole

Materials: Bond paper, crepe paper and Kapa

Dimensions: 7” x 17 ½”  x 16 ½”

Technique: Cartapesta

56 hrs

Hawaiian feather helmets, known as mahiole in the Hawaiian language, were worn with feather cloaks ‘ahu ‘ula. These were symbols of the highest rank reserved for the men of the aliʻi, the chiefly class of Hawaii. At least sixteen of these helmets were collected during the voyages of Captain Cook. These helmets are constructed on a basket type frame structure which makes them light and strong. The frame is usually decorated with feathers obtained from local birds using fine featherwork techniques, although there have been variations which have used human hair instead. The design for mahiole is a basketry frame cap with a central crest running from the center of the forehead to the nape of the neck, varying in height and thickness. The arrangement and color of the feather patterns also differ. 

The tradition comes from the northern coast of New Ireland, Papua New Guinea. The plant used to make the baskets is Freycinetia arborea, Touchardia latifolia was also used to create string or thread to tie the feathers to the basketry. While the Hawaiians did not wear hats, during times of combat, the Ali'i chiefs would wear these specially created wicker helmets that have been likened to the classic Greek helmets, and also coincidentally bear a resemblance to the headdress worn by Ladakh Buddhist religious musicians.

A related Hawaiian term Oki Mahiole means a haircut where a strip of hair is left on the head. The image of the Hawaiian god Kū-ka-ili-moku is sometimes presented with a similar shaped head. The coloring was achieved using different types of feathers. The black and yellow came from a bird called the Moho or ʻOʻo. They became extinct in 1987 with the probable cause being disease. Black feathers were also sourced from the bird called the Mamo which is also now extinct. The distinctive red feathers came from the 'I'iwi and the ʻApapane. Both species are still moderately common birds in Hawaii.

Although birds were exploited for their feathers the effect on the population by the Hawaiians is thought to be minimal. The birds were not killed but were caught by specialist bird catchers, a few feathers harvested and then the birds were released. Tens of thousands of feathers were required for each mahiole. A small bundle of feathers was gathered and tied before being tied into the framework. Bundles were tied in close proximity to form a uniform covering of the surface of the mahiole.